To The Ends of the Earth...

Friday, January 15, 2010

It’s a wedding!

On Saturday, Aisuluu and I left for Kizilkia. It is a town in the southern part of the country. We headed down there for Saltinat’s wedding. I’ve been to a few weddings here, all in the city, but this one was a more traditional Kyrgyz village style wedding. Well about a year before, Saltinat was a stolen bride- meaning she was pretty much kidnapped and brought to the guy’s family house and had an unofficial ceremony. She decided to stay and remain his wife, and this wedding is more of the official ceremony in which friends and all relatives are invited to.
We first went to his family’s house for something to eat as is customary, and then to her family’s home where we had some more tea. There were also many gifts of furniture and things for the home. Saltinat waited in the house and her husband and the guys came to the house. Her mother and other women stood in the door way not letting them in until they eventually made their way through. Then there were pictures taken of them together and we were on our way for a photo fest! Everyone piles into cars and minibuses decorated with ribbons and drives around the town honking the horns and stopping at the popular places to take photos- parks, monuments, other places. Lots of photos! Then we drove to a café in the park where we enjoyed some ice cream and drinks and did a little dancing. After that we headed back to his family’s home for the major celebration! While they were still setting up we entered another relative’s home and ate some more- soup, plav, fruits, salads, tea, etc. It’s almost like a progressive dinner, except you eat all courses almost every time you sit to eat!
Then we walked a couple houses down where everything had been set up.The street was blocked in front of the house- no car could pass. On one end a very large rug was hung with the couple’s names and congratulations pressed in with cotton; this was the backdrop for the head table where the bride and groom, best man and maid of honor sat. On either side was a long row of tables and benches for everyone else to sit. And opposite the head table was the DJ station and several very gianormous speakers! I think the whole town knew there was a wedding going on! The tables were set with different kinds of home-made breads, salads, drinks, candies, chocolates, and the main dishes-which included plav. As the only American, I was a popular attraction- and yes that is exactly what I felt like. In Bishkek, the people whom I work with and meet, treat me like an ordinary person- here many- mostly guys treated me like some freak show, asking me weird questions about America, and I’m sure the fact that most of them were inebriated didn’t help the conversation topics. But fortunately, I have good friends and others to help create distractions and buffer zones and escapes when necessary. As the ceremony continued, the couple was brought out with many guys dancing around them with another carpet carried over them. They stood next to the head table where his parents came and put a white scarf on her head, then her parents came with gifts. The gift table is placed in front of the head table.
So here is the sequence of events- a group goes to the DJ, (for example our group), you get the mic and say your wishes for the new couple, the Dj playes some music that of which you walk up or dance up to the couple with your gifts in hand and congratulate them, then a new song comes on and everyone is out dancing until another group goes up to the DJ and the routine is started again. It was very fun! I really enjoyed! And I think I ate more in that day than I usually do in an entire week- Kyrgyz culture is very delicious.

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